These days, Tory Burch is known for her design eye. But in her youth, Burch’s nose informed her creativity. The Pennsylvania-born, 58-year-old designer recalls swiping fragrance bottles from her mother’s vanity and balancing out their sweetness with the spiciness of her father’s Vétiver by Guerlain. “They would have to throw me in the bath,” Burch tells W over e-mail of her parents. Soon, the young entrepreneur went a more organic route—taking flowers and oils from her mother’s garden to create her own perfume from scratch. “I can’t say I was particularly successful,” she notes.
Burch’s recent ventures in the world of fragrance have, luckily, been more fruitful. Her signature perfume is easy and polished, while the scents from her Essence of Dreams collection are vibrant and beguiling. But it’s her newest endeavor, Sublime, that is sure to be the crown jewel of her budding scent empire. With the help of Givaudan master perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, perfumer Christine Hassan, and Shiseido, Burch created a scent grounded in ivy, patchouli, and magnolia. “Fragrance is about emotion,” she says. “Above anything else, I want women to feel confident, sensual, and strong.”
Below, Burch discusses what inspired Sublime’s meandering notes, why Kendall Jenner’s “quiet power” made her the perfect face for the fragrance, and the one scent she loves that will never make it into a Tory Burch bottle.
Tory Burch and Kendall Jenner
Courtesy of Tory Burch
The bottle for Sublime is a big departure from the Essence of Dreams set. Who or what inspired the design?
The bottle is an abstract, three-dimensional take on our Double T. I wanted it to be sculptural and architectural, something that would look beautiful on your vanity. It reminds me of the Guggenheim Museum. There is a purity that I love, with a twisted logo that represents the evolution of our brand.
Tell me about the scent, the different notes, and how they come together to create Sublime.
When I was at our home in Antigua, I found this vintage leather handbag in my mother’s closet. The scent was intoxicating, and I thought it was a great starting point for our fragrance. I wanted to create tension with the addition of unexpected notes: osmanthus, vetiver, rose, a slight touch of mandarin. The juxtaposition makes it addictive.
Why did you choose Kendall Jenner to represent the fragrance?
She is fearless, she is an entrepreneur, and she truly embodies confidence, sensuality, and strength.
We met on a shoot in 2016, and I have been intrigued by her ever since. We learned that we share many of the same values: family, our work ethic, our love of animals and sports.
Okay, now for some Beauty Notes questions. Who is your beauty icon?
My mother. She taught me that beauty comes from within, and that flaws are interesting.
What fragrances are in your lineup? What do you wear for a night out, a day at the office, a lunch with friends?
I have a few. I love our Essence of Dreams Luminous Musk fragrance, Vétiver by Guerlain, and Gran de Folie, which was discontinued. The Ritz Paris used to have an amazing perfume, and anytime a friend went to Paris they would bring it back for me.
What is a non-perfume scent that you weirdly enjoy?
A can of fresh tennis balls.
